2009 01 17 - BT - Santiago de Compostela

Source : Business Times Weekend Travel

Pilgrimage of pleasure

Whether it's spiritual or bodily nourishment you're seeking, you'll find it in Santiago de Compostela. By Maisy Koh

AS YOU approach the Galician capital of Santiago de Compostela, its reputation as one of the most sacred sites in Christendom becomes clear once you catch sight of pilgrims from all over the world - on bicycle, on foot, with walking sticks, backpacks and scallop shells (a symbol of this pilgrimage) - making their way to pay homage to St James, the patron saint of Spain.

A designated Unesco World Heritage site, the old town of Santiago is centred around the Cathedral. The air is charged with emotion and anticipation by the droves of arriving pilgrims. At the same time there is a sense of excitement, dignity and spirituality as you approach the town centre. Perhaps it is the emotional climax for the pilgrims who have endured the challenges of the journey, a sense of personal accomplishment, a fulfilment of promises and the relief that the final destination is finally in sight.

Each year, travellers embark on this spiritual journey to the sacred city of St James. History has it that the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral (Cathedral of St James) was built over the remains of St James the Great, one of Jesus' first disciples. The relics were discovered in the 9th century, though its authenticity remains a controversy. According to legends, St James crossed Europe to Spain. Along the way, he saved a knight from drowning. When the knight re-emerged from the sea, he was covered with seashells. Henceforth, seashells, or more specifically, scallop shells, were used as a symbol of El Camino de Santiago or the Way of St James.

Each morning, pilgrims wait for the iron gates of the cathedral to open. The baroque facade is magnificent. It's not quite in the same league as Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, but nonetheless, its soaring towers, ornate reliefs and rich interiors are mesmerising works of art. As pilgrims and visitors climb the stairs of Praza do Obradoiro and enter the doors, they are immediately greeted by one of the finest examples of Romanesque art, the Portico de la Gloria, completed in 1188 by Maestro Mateo.

This is the cathedral's original entrance. St James' sculpture is the one with five small grooves under it - made by the millions of pilgrims over the centuries who have placed their hands on it. Inside the cathedral, a line of pilgrims make their way to the high altar, where St James presides in his jewelled cloak. If you want to skip the crowds, go in the afternoon when it's quieter.

Another masterpiece sitting at the corner of the cathedral on Praza do Obradoiro is the Hostel dos Reis Catolicos or Parador de Santiago de Compostela. This Parador, arguably one of the world's oldest hotels, originated as a royal hospital in 1499 to provide care for the sick pilgrims as they arrived in the city. Today it is one of the most highly rated Paradors in Spain. Restricted for in-house guests only, the Parador is a magnificent blend of grandeur, history, art and tradition.

Wander around the Parador to soak in the historic atmosphere. The corridors are crammed with antiques and works of art though a few look strangely out of place.

Four garden patios with fountains, sculptures of gargoyles and saints framed by magnificent arched corridors make for a leisurely, romantic stroll. There are little niches tucked away in corners waiting to be discovered. Some of them have been transformed into private rooms for small parties, a quiet spot for reading or simply an area of antique display. You marvel at how this once-upon-a-time refuge for the sick has undergone a complete metamorphosis to become one of the most exquisite sanctuaries in Spain today.

Within the Parador, one of the most stunning spaces is the fine-dining restaurant - Libredon. Located in the basement, it is a grand, vaulted dining room. Open to non-resident guests as well, Libredon serves excellent Galician fare. With a lively atmosphere, versatile pianist, (the elderly pianist played One Republic's Too Late to Apologise to one's utter surprise!) attentive service and elegant interiors, it is no wonder that it is considered one of the finest restaurants in the city.

Santiago de Compostela is reputed to hold more restaurants and bars per square mile than any other city in Spain. That is quite a feat considering Spain is now a foodie's mecca! Seafood is the specialty. Simplicity is the style, with the emphasis on the natural essence of the raw ingredients. Scallops, lobsters, octopus and a myriad of fish are on display everywhere. The pulpo (octopus) is simply outstanding. Cooked simply and sliced paper-thin, it melts in your mouth, but not before delivering a knockout punch of flavours and sweetness. The one at Libredon in Parador de Santiago de Compostela is exceptionally good.

For a taste of innovative Galician cuisine, try Toni Vicent, the originator of la cocina gallega (the modern Galician cuisine). Here, the food is prepared lightly using only the finest ingredients. Order the monkfish, which is the specialty of the restaurant. We tried it poached and pan-fried and both were reasonably good. It is a one-star Michelin restaurant, but it was surprisingly empty. If ambience is an important part of your dining experience, you will be disappointed. The food is satisfactory but pricey.

Another restaurant to try is Casa Marcelo. It only has a pre-fixed menu, but the atmosphere is buzzing and the service attentive. To sample more accessible Galician fare, hop around the tapas bars, a mind-boggling number of which are just around the cathedral. Check out La Bodeguilla de San Roque and Taberna do Bispo. The buzz is frantic and the variety of food is simply astonishing. Ubiquitous specialties of the Galicia region include the erotic breast-shaped cheese or queso de tetilla, tarte de almendra (almond tart) and blue-and-white ceramics. The almond tarts are especially popular with pilgrim-tourists who buy them as gifts.

The presence of a large university adds an exciting dimension to this venerable cathedral capital. Students are important elements of the humanscape here. The juxtaposition of infectious energy and spiritual serenity makes Santiago de Compostela all the more fascinating. Cafes, bars and clubs popular with locals, students and visitors alike are especially plentiful around Rua das Hostas and Plaza Rojas. Around the casco antiguo (old town), streets like Rua do Franco, Rua da Raina and Rua di Vilar are lined with tapas bars and shops. Even if you are neither looking to fill your stomach nor in need of retail therapy, meander through the cobblestoned narrow streets of the old town and get lost along the handsome thoroughfares, arcaded walkways and centuries-old architecture.

Excellent food, good wines (Ribeiro and Albarino), and buzzing nightlife easily make Santiago de Compostela appealing to non-spiritual visitors. For the culture vulture, just the old town alone is crammed with historic buildings, churches and museums. Top it off with the legendary Cathedral of St James, and Santiago de Compostela has all the elements of a great weekend or side trip if you're travelling around Spain.