2009 02 20 - Jamon Iberico

What is Jamón Ibérico?
Jamón Ibérico refers to a cured ham only produced in Spain. The pigs must be at least 75% Black Iberian, cerdo negro, the only breed of pig that naturally seeks and eats mainly acorns. The Black Iberian Pig lives primarily in the southwestern parts of Spain.

The hams are labeled according to the pigs' diet, with an acorn diet being most desirable:
• The finest jamón ibérico is called jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn). This ham is from free-range pigs that roam oak forests (called la dehesa) along the southern border between Spain and Portugal, and eat only acorns during this last period. The exercise and the diet have a significant impact on the flavor of the meat; the ham is cured for 36 months. This is the true pata negra.

• The next grade of jamón ibérico is called jamón ibérico de recebo. This ham is from pigs that are pastured and fed a combination of acorns and grain.

• The third type of jamón ibérico is called jamón ibérico de pienso, or simply, jamón ibérico. This ham is from pigs that are fed only grain. The ham is cured for 24 months.

The term pata negra is also used to refer to jamón ibérico in general and may refer to any one of the above three types.

Bellota jamones are prized both for their smooth texture and rich savory taste. A good ibérico ham has regular flecks of intramuscular fat. Because of the pig's diet of acorns, much of the jamón's fat is comprised of oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid that has been shown to lower LDL cholesterol and raise HDL cholesterol.

Until recently, jamón ibérico was not available in the U.S. In 2005 the first producer in Spain, Embutidos y Jamones Fermin, was approved by the U.S.D.A. to export ibérico ham products to the U.S. The first jamóns ibéricos were released for sale in the United States in December, 2007, with the bellota hams due to follow in July 2008.

Where do the pigs roam?
Jabugo is located in the Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche nature park, in the northern part of the province of Huelva (Andalusia, Spain). Situated 658 meters above sea level, it has a population of 2,600 inhabitants.

In Jabugo, The pigs grow in an ecosystem, the "dehesa", covered by large tracts of sparsely wooded land with scattered trees, mainly oaks, and lots of acorns. Iberian breed pigs are the only animals of this species in which stored fat is redistributed throughout the body, infiltrating the muscle fibers. When the pig has consumed a diet with a high acorn content this fat is of superior quality, giving the flesh its characteristic texture, aroma and flavor.


How are the hams cured?
The hams from the slaughtered pigs are salted and left to begin drying for two weeks, after which they are rinsed and left to dry for another four to six weeks. The curing process then takes at least nine months, although some producers cure their jamones ib?icos from 18 to 30 months from start to finish, including cutting, salting, washing, drying and maturation. Depending on the weight of the ham the curing time may be longer. For shoulder cuts, which are smaller, the curing process lasts between 10 and 18 months, although larger pieces may take longer.

Salting of Jabugo hams is done with sea salt. Hams then undergo a natural drying and maturation process in a bodega for a total of almost 3 years, after which they are tested.

Legend has it that hams were created when a pig one day fell into a gully with very salty water, and drowned. Shepherds found the pig and roasted it, discovering that the meat - particularly the hind leg - had a pleasant flavor. Later they discovered that when the hind leg was salted it lasted longer without losing its flavor, and the method was thereafter perfected.

What is the origin of the Iberian Pig?
The Iberian pig (Sus Scrofa Mediterraneus) is found in herds clustered in the central and southern territory of the Iberian Peninsula.

The most commonly accepted theory is that the first pigs were brought to the Iberian Peninsula by the Phoenicians from the Eastern Mediterranean coast (current day Lebanon) where they interbred with wild boars. This cross gave rise to the first Iberian breeds whose origins, in this case, can be traced back to about the year 1000 B.C.