2009 06 28 - Urumqi ( Sunday Times 3 May 09 )

Oasis in the wilderness
Urumqi is a colourful frontier city in north-west China that links the deserts with snow-capped mountains. -SPU

Wed, May 06, 2009
Special Projects Unit
[top photo: Tsui Hark's Seven Swords was shot in Urumqi, China]
By David Bowden
AS FAR as Chinese destinations go, they don't come any more remote than Urumqi in north-west China. Head any further west and you are into one of the 'stans' that border China's largest province, which covers one-sixth of the country.
Urumqi is like a spoke in a wheel that has Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan as well as India, Russia and Mongolia around its rim.
I decided to fly from Beijing to explore Urumqi and use it as a jumping off point in travelling along the Chinese section of the Silk Road.
The heavy air and grey skies upon arrival confirm that Urumqi is a large industrial city, but it doesn't take long to realise that beyond the city, the landscape is a contrast of barrenness in all directions.


The flaming cliffs of Gobi desert with its singing sand dunes in Mongolia.
Within a few hours of the capital is a land of extremes ranging from snowcapped peaks to the surrounding barren Taklimakan, Gurbantunggut and Gobi Deserts, which once formed near impenetrable barriers to the camel caravans that traversed the Silk Road.
Urumqi is a fully developed city thanks to injections of capital from the central government, but there is still very much a frontier atmosphere here.
Being one of the oasis towns in a parched landscape, everyone here seems to be on their way to somewhere, like nomads in the desert. It retains much of its historical role as a place for man and beast to rest and recover before setting off for another destination.
Looking at the people in the large Renmin Park in central Urumqi, I realised the complexity of the culture and the ethnic diversity. Urumqi is a place where various peoples from the West and East have coexisted and cohabitated for centuries.
I could see elements of nomadic herders, Mongols, Tibetans, Hans, Kazak horsemen, Uygur farmers and barbarian warlords in the park and in the city's wonderful bazaars.
On the greens, folks performed traditional local dances while others waltzed to ballroom music next to calligraphers writing Chinese characters. Signs written in Arabic, Chinese and English can be seen all throughout the city.
Most visitors will end up in a bazaar at some stage although many goods are traded on the street. Look out for colourful and ornate Moslem skull caps, sharp Uygur knives, carpets and rugs and hawker stalls selling the inevitable shish kebab, barbecued lamb and nang (naan) bread.
While the bazaars and markets of the city indicate its important function as a trading centre, most of the city's tourist attractions lie some distance away.


The serene beauty of Xinjiang's Heavenly Pool or Tianchi glistens under the sun.
Tianchi, or Heavenly Lake, is like a little piece of Switzerland in the middle of China. The waters of the lake are a shimmering turquoise and the snowy peaks look like they don't belong on Earth.
Nomadic Kazak people still tend to their flocks of sheep and goats. Along with their yurt, or 'mobile' home, they graze their cattle in the hills during the summer months.
Nanshan or Southern Pasture is another tourist attraction that is characterised by deep gorges, fast-flowing streams and rolling hills. Cattle graze here and tall poplars line the riverbanks.
My guide told me that in autumn, the valley floors are lined with ribbons of orange and yellow as these trees change colour. While spectacular, he said, they were nothing compared to the autumnal colours of the forests lining Kanas Lake situated in the Altay Mountains of the remote northern part of Xinjiang bordering Mongolia.
I made a mental note to put this on my 'must see' list for the future.
Frontier facts
◊ Remote as it may be, many products are available in Urumqi city. However, products are mostly labelled in Chinese so do carry items such as medicines, sun block (essential for the summer months) and personal hygiene products with you.
◊ In winter, the city fogs up and early morning flights are often delayed. Ask your travel agent to book afternoon flights in and out of Urumqi if travelling in winter.
◊ Be warned that the thermometer often slips below zero in winter, so come prepared with plenty of warm clothing or buy some in the markets.
◊ For travel bookings and enquires, call ASA Holidays at 6303-5333. For international medical assistance, call OCBC Concierge at (65) 6322-2588.
This article was first published in The Straits Times Special. It is produced by the Special Projects Unit, Marketing Division, SPH.