2009 06 28 - Inner Mongolia ( Sunday Times 26 April 2009 )

Magical Mongolia
Inner Mongolia is a treasure trove of diversity that opens the traveller's mind. -SPU

Fri, Apr 24, 2009
Special Projects Unit
[top photo: Sunset view at Xilamuren grassland in Inner Mongolia]
By Wong Sher Maine
IT COULD have been a scene straight out of the Indiana Jones Temple of Doom movie: the part where the archaeologist adventurer and his posse are served eyeballs in soup and brain jelly quivering atop the sawn off top of a monkey's head.
Only this time, wheeled out on an elaborately carved wooden wagon in a restaurant in Inner Mongolia was what appeared to be a barbecued goat stripped of its hide and hair, reclining contentedly on all fours.
By what devious means the cooks managed to cook the entire goat - still with its skin on - was a question that did not immediately come to mind, for the biggest distraction was the huge white bow which was tied between the carcass's ears.
It is apparently a special dish called boodog. The cooks placed super-hot stones and seasonings to cook it from the inside while heat-blasting it from the outside to burn off the hair and roast the meat. The result is an animal that is cooked in its own skin.
Suffice to say it was an unforgettable meal in the land of Genghis Khan that was eye-opening at every turn.
Inner Mongolia is governed by China, unlike (Outer) Mongolia, which is an independent state.
Occupying 12 per cent of China, its surface area is 1,700 times larger than Singapore but its population is just six times larger.
The vast land captures nature at its wildest. Historical attractions such as Genghis Khan's mausoleum and the Zhaojun tomb aside, the most beautiful images are those of a lone horseman, miniscule against rolling green hills and blue skies with the sun beating down mercilessly.
Tourists can hire horses to ride on the plains alongside the Mongolian horsemen, some of whom learn to ride before they learn to walk.
Then there are the stunning sand dunes at the resonant Sand Gorge.
Not small beachside dunes, but a whole sea of sand.
Take a camel ride on the dunes - a whole troop of camels, some nice, some ornery - are ready for hire.


Sandboarding is also an option and so are chair lifts for those seeking a bird's-eye view of the spectacular gorge.
Even the sleeping quarters are picturesque.
The nomadic Mongolians basically used to carry their yurts or homes - a sturdy construction of poles covered with thick felt that looks like a white dome - with them wherever they went.
Grassland resorts line up rows of yurts for tourists to sleep in, only these are modernised, with toilets and air-conditioning for the hot months.
One of the best experiences during the trip was when our 20-member tour group spontaneously decided to visit a local home.
It was a little surreal shivering outside the yurt, underneath a blanket of stars, waiting for the guide to explain why we were all out there.
Once inside the big round yurt, we swiftly found comfort sitting on a floor covered in elaborate handwoven carpets, leaning back on thick mattresses and chatting with the friendly people over a hot oven.

Stunning plains and tall, craggy mountains greet visitors to Mongolia.
Spirits got even higher as we liberally imbibed alcohol and the Mongolians whipped out an accordian and a traditional two-stringed instrument, the tovshuur, to accompany their boisterous singing. It was a night to remember.

Inside Mongolia
◊ Those who are lactose intolerant be prepared: The Mongolian diet consists mainly of dairy produce like milk, yoghurt and cheese.
◊ Visit Mongolia during the Nadaam Festival in July or August, when the three traditional sports of Mongolia (wrestling, horse racing and archery) are showcased.
◊ Be prepared for extremes of climate in one day: It can get blistering hot in the day and freezing cold at night.
◊ For travel bookings and enquires, call ASA Holidays at 6303-5333. For international medical assistance, call OCBC Concierge at (65) 6322-2588.
-Special Projects Unit